Even
though Pope Benedict XVI is leaving the papacy, he’ll remain in sumptuous,
familiar surroundings — at least for a few weeks.
Sometime in April, Benedict
will take up permanent residence in Mater Ecclesiae, a modest convent for
cloistered nuns at the Vatican. The convent is under renovation, however, so in
the meantime, Benedict will live at Castel Gandolfo, the small town of about
8,000 people a few miles southeast of Rome that has been the summer retreat for
popes for almost four centuries.
Vatican records indicate that
Benedict has spent an average of five weeks a year at the grand Apostolic
Palace at Castel Gandolfo since he assumed the papacy in 2005, so he should
feel quite at home.
And what a home it is. The
complex, which overlooks Lake Albano and what’s left of the enormous villa of
the first-century Roman Emperor Domitian, actually dwarfs Vatican City by
almost 400,000 square feet. It comes complete with landscaped gardens, an
arboretum, natural conservatories, museums and fish ponds.
The sculptured gardens, which
make up more than half of the estate, are a favorite retreat for popes, who
have been known to frequently take long walk along their paths.
And don’t forget the 25 dairy
cattle, which are reputed to produce some of the finest milk in Europe.
The town is named for the
castle of the Gandolfi family of Genoa, which was built around 1200. It was
originally a fortress against marauders, which explains its high walls and
other ancient barriers.
Formally speaking, the Vatican
assumed control of Castel Gandolfo only in 1929 under the Lateran Treaty, which
formalized relations between Italy and the independent state of Vatican City.
But in reality, it has been the church’s domain since 1596, when Pope Clement
VIII seized it from the Savelli family in lieu of unpaid debts, according to
the Vatican’s official history.
Today, it’s home not only to
the Apostolic Palace but also the Vatican Observatory (where visitors can see a
moon rock collected during the Apollo XVII mission), the Villa Barberini (where
many remains of Domitian’s palace are still visible), Villa Cybo (which is used
by school of the Maestre Pie Filippini religious community), apartments for 21
employees and the Pontifical Church of St. Thomas of Villanova.
The complex itself is the
setting for stunning works of religious art, as well, among them frescoes by
Jan Henryk de Rosen and Angelo Righetti’s statue “Madonna of the Park.”
The Pontifical Church, designed
in 1658 by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the leading sculptor of his age, features
interior domes and statues by Antonio Raggi, famous for grand pieces such as
the “Virgin and Child” in Paris and the marble “Death of Saint Cecelia” in
Rome. One of Bernini’s own masterpieces, a fontana, or fountain, adorns the the
piazza facing the Apostolic Palace.
At Castel Gandolfo, “I find
everything: a mountain, a lake; I even see the sea,” Benedict remarked in 2011.
Those words are now engraved on a plaque in the town hall.
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